Heavy Gauge Tracking 

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Heavy gauge tracking is for tall curtains above 10ft. As you pull on the side bindings to draw a curtain, the binding angles a bit until there is enough pull pressure for the carriers to begin sliding. This angle is called "the angle of attack." Heavy gauge track has very smooth roller carriers that require less pull pressure for more vertical angles of attack.

The stickiness of the standard tracking carriers depends the distance between the top of the curtain and how high you are able to reach on the side binding to draw the curtain. This distance forms the angle of attack. At about 10ft. 4in. or taller is the threshold for switching to the heavy gauge track, although some clients have chosen higher or lower thresholds depending on their needs.

Installation for the heavy gauge tracking is conceptually identical to the standard tracking same 7ft straight tracks, radius curves, end caps, and carriers. Of course the components look a bit different, but installation procedure is virtually the same.

1. Pre-drill holes into tracking (3 per 7ft. track) and screw tracking directly up into surface
2. Cut using a hacksaw and use splices to connect tracking.
3. A touch of silicone spray.
4. Attach snap carriers to curtain and feed the curtain into one end of the track.
5. Insert end caps into tracking, secure the sides of your curtain panels.

A Few Tracking Tips 

If a Curtain Panel Turns a Corner along the interior of a corner column (or in some cases no column at all), we call this an inside hang. Stretch our elastic cord vertically just inside the curtain between 2 eye screws to pinch the curtain against the column for a clean crisp edge.

Leave a 1-2 Inch Gap at ONE end of any track segment so that you can remove an end cap and slide the entire curtain out of the end of the track for convenience. The curtain will bridge this gap and seal to either a column or wall. When choosing which end to place the tracking gap, it is best for the gap to be on the more stationary side of the curtain. For example, if you draw the curtain Left to Right, place the tracking gap on the more stationary Right side.

A Slick Trick Recall that the track is 5/8" wide and 1/2" deep. If you are NOT using curved track, you can hide the profile of the track by placing 1/2" molding on the side of the track for a false inset look. This may help if you are mounting white track to dark wood.

Painting track The white track is powder coated and can be painted any color. To do this right, you should have the track powder coated by a local paint shop. Spray painting the track requires preparation and patience so that the paint does not run. We do keep a limited stock of silver anodized track that you may special request.

We received a tip from a client  that  ¾in.  "Pin striping tape" from any auto parts store is a great solution. This tape comes in a variety of colors and widths and holds extremely well (for car washings). We have yet to experiment with this and have not actually used it ourselves. But because of the nice straight edge of the track, it should be relatively easy to apply. Here's an online store that sells tape

Side mounting track (right) Simply side mount a 2" x 2" board and then ceiling mount the track to the 2" x 2". If the bottom of the track is flush with the bottom of the mounting surface, you can use a 1" x 1" molding strip since the curtain will not bind up on the side mounting surface. See diagram below. Preferred method.

Tricky method (left) Requires a little talent and deviates from how the track is intended to ceiling mount. First, imagine you are looking at the butt end of the track as if you are looking down the barrel of a gun. There are ridges that look like bunk beds. The top bunk is to hold the track splice and the bottom bunk is where the carriers slide. You CANNOT interfere with the carriers, but you can screw sideways through the top bunk. Be sure not to screw too hard or you will close the C-channel and restrict the carriers. In addition, the bottom of the track MUST be flush with the bottom of whatever you are side mounting to so that the curtain will be able to snake back and forth unrestricted.

Clean surface	Peel and stick
Staple gun every 12 inches	Hang your curtain
Create limited doorways	Top is Stationary

Velcro® tape mounted curtains will have a 5/8" loop-sided Velcro strip that is double-stitched to the top binding of the curtain. You simply "peel and stick" a corresponding hook-sided Velcro® tape strip (included in your attachment kit) to your surface.

It is best to attach the adhesive-backed hook-sided Velcro® tape strip to a vertical (perpendicular) wood surface like the outside face of a header beam. Mounting to the underside of a surface is a weak hold and requires extra marine snaps to better secure.

Adhesive-backed Velcro® tape WILL NOT stick to Masonry
See Special Situations for Masonry, vinyl, and aluminum siding.

1. Clean hanging surface with a damp towel
2. Apply Adhesive Velcro® tape to a perpendicular surface
3. Reinforce Velcro® tape with a staple gun every 12 inches
4. Hang curtain by pressing curtain to your hanging surface
5. Reinforce top corners of curtain panel with marine snaps
6. Secure the sides of curtain, & pour yourself a lemonade

Will Velcro® tape hold?

Yes. The attachment is difficult to pull away from the center. The weak spots are the two upper corners of a given curtain panel that need to be reinforced with marine snaps. With marine snaps, the curtain won't have the opportunity to blow open a flap and slowly start a chain reaction where, in a few hours, your curtain would otherwise fall.