Masonry surfaces include brick, stucco, cement, and stone and come in a variety of textures. Some masonry textures can be quite rough to the touch especially right-angled corners. If you bleed when you rub your hand over it, well, that's a good hint. Even rubbing denim over a prickly stucco corner long enough will eventually wear a hole.

You will want only the toughest part of the curtain to come directly in contact with masonry, and that is the sturdy binding around the perimeter of the curtain. When you have masonry support columns, it is common to use a separate curtain panel for each of your individual exposures such that the panels start and end where only the binding comes in contact with the masonry.

If for some reason, the mosquito netting must pass a sharp surface you can either "block" or "pad." Blocking might involve stretching elastic cord between the netting and the sharp masonry to act as a rib barrier.. Padding might involve fastening decorative corner molding to the exposed corner with a masonry adhesive.

Sealing to masonry There are a number of ways to seal the binding to masonry. Male marine snap can be screwed into masonry using a $4 masonry drill bit and plastic insert casing to receive the screw. For brick, it is best to screw into the mortar and not the brick itself.

Stainless steel Marine Snaps can be ordered on the store page. We provide a tool so that you can position the marine snaps exactly where they are needed on any perimeter binding of the curtain. The male snaps are on a 5/8" screw stud and will screw into most any surface. We describe marine snaps in more detail including a installation video in Sealing Sides.

A wood strip can be fastened to a masonry wall or column with a good adhesive, or sometimes just wedged into place with a little extra help with a floor and ceiling "L-bracket". The side binding can now seal to the wood strip using any attachment method.